Soup up in Mallorca

Isn’t it such a wonderful feeling when you can push yourself climbing without getting scared? Sometimes I feel like a bit of type 1 fun really is good for the soul.

This year during much of my trad climbing I’ve felt like Bambi skittering around on a slippery piece of ice. Its felt harder than ever to slip into that nirvana where I:

a) have the confidence to get on a route I know I will have to fight for

b) really fight once I’m on it.

Despite this, I was hoping a week of trad in the South pulling on jugs this September might give me one last chance of the year to properly relax into the trad. I was really looking forward to our trip until on Thursday Tim phoned me up at work and said the weather looked rubbish.

Two days later I found myself half asleep on a flight to Mallorca. Mallorca…hmmm. Somehow the thought of a week deep water soloing terrified me even more that trad does. I’d only ever tried it a couple times before but had found myself totally frozen up on easy routes, muscles stiff, begging me not to make a single move higher; and I certainly didn’t want to try anything I might actually fall in on.

Scared on Perfect Pitch (f6a+) in Pembroke. Photo: Misha Nepogodiev

With those memories in the back of my brain I told myself I’d be pretty psyched if I did a single f7a all week.

Anyway, perhaps the fact that it was sooo damn hot that it was actually enjoyable to fall in, or the fact that I was back in the land of a muerte, or that I realised as soon as I fell in once that you don’t know you’re off until you’ve hit the soup; that I was able to (almost) totally relax and have one of the funnest weeks climbing I’ve ever had.

Here are a few photos from the week:

The fun toe hook move on Bisexual. Fell off the top of this one twice! Photo: Tim Newton

The fun toe hook move on Bisexual. Fell off the top of this one twice! Photo: Tim Newton

Tim losing battle to the greasy connies on Princess of Transilvania

Tim losing battle to the greasy connies on Princess of Transilvania

Tim on The Lobster at Diablo. High!

Tim on The Lobster at Diablo. High!

Spot the pasty legs. Calamares at Diablo. Photo: Tim Newton

Spot the pasty legs. Calamares at Diablo. Photo: Tim Newton

The awesome stalagtite traverse at Cala Barques

The awesome stalagtite traverse at Cala Barques

Big XXL at Cala Barques. Photo: Tim Newton

Big XXL at Cala Barques. Photo: Tim Newton

Hot, sunny rock ups the difficult factor. Photo: Tim Newton

Hot, sunny rock ups the difficult factor. Photo: Tim Newton

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One thought on “Soup up in Mallorca

  1. Pingback: Autumn Adventures | R a c h e l S l a t e r

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